How to Tell Real Titanium Bolts from Fakes — and Spot Quality Differences

How to Tell Real Titanium Bolts from Fakes — and Spot Quality Differences

Titanium bolts are loved by cyclists, motorcyclists, and performance enthusiasts for their strength, light weight, and corrosion resistance. But the truth is, not every “titanium” bolt sold online is the real deal. Some are outright fakes made from steel or aluminum, while others are technically titanium but use low-grade material or poor machining. Both can fail under stress — a risk no rider should take.

Here’s how to tell the difference between fake bolts, low-quality titanium bolts, and high-quality Grade 5 titanium bolts.

1. How to Spot Fake Titanium Bolts

Fake titanium bolts are the most dangerous — they waste your money and can break under load. Luckily, there are four simple ways to check:

  • Weight Test (Most Reliable First Check):
    Titanium’s density is ~4.5 g/cm³. Steel is ~7.8 g/cm³ (40% heavier), aluminum is ~2.7 g/cm³ (40% lighter).
    👉 A real titanium bolt should feel clearly lighter than steel, but heavier than aluminum.
    💡 Pro tip: Drop the bolt into a measuring cup of water to measure its volume, then weigh it. Weight ÷ volume ≈ density. If it’s close to 4.51, it’s titanium.

  • Color & Brightness (Visual Inspection):
    Real titanium has a dark gray, matte or stone-like texture. Anodized versions (blue, gold, purple) have a deep, uniform tone.
    Fake titanium (plated steel) looks overly shiny, chrome-like, sometimes bluish gray. The coating chips easily, revealing dark metal underneath.

  • Magnet Test (Quick Screening):
    Real titanium is non-magnetic. A magnet will not stick.
    Fake bolts made of steel are magnetic and will cling firmly.
    ⚠️ Reminder: Some stainless steels are also non-magnetic, so combine this with other tests.

  • File Test (The Ultimate Check):
    If you don’t mind sacrificing one bolt, use a file.
    • Real titanium: Softer than steel. A file removes bright silver shavings that don’t oxidize quickly.
    • Fake (steel): Harder, darker shavings, often the file slips instead of cutting.

👉 If a bolt feels heavy, sticks to a magnet, or looks like cheap chrome, it’s not titanium.

2. Real Titanium: Low-Quality vs High-Quality

Passing the tests above confirms your bolt is titanium — but that doesn’t mean it’s high quality. Within real titanium bolts, quality can vary a lot:

  • Material Grade:
    • Low quality: Often Grade 2 titanium — softer, weaker, easier to deform.
    • High quality: Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V) — aerospace standard, tensile strength 900–1100 MPa, perfect for cycling and motorcycles.
  • Machining:
    • Low quality: Rough threads, burrs, inconsistent sizing. Installation feels rough and risks stripped threads.
    • High quality: CNC-machined with tight tolerances, smooth threading, consistent fit.
  • Heat Treatment & Forging:
    • Low quality: Simple bar stock turned on a lathe — weak grain structure, more likely to crack.
    • High quality: Cold-forged or properly heat-treated — stronger, fatigue-resistant.
  • Surface Finish:
    • Low quality: Cheap anodizing, uneven colors that scratch off quickly.
    • High quality: Professional anodizing or PVD coating, uniform and durable finish.

3. Real-Life Examples Riders Will Recognize

  • Mountain bike in the rain: Fake “titanium” steel bolts start rusting within days. True titanium bolts stay spotless even after a muddy weekend ride.
  • Motorcycle brake caliper bolts: A cheap low-grade titanium bolt may twist or gall under torque, while a high-grade CNC titanium bolt holds strong and installs smoothly.
  • Long-term use: After a year, fake bolts lose their shiny plating and look worn, while real titanium bolts keep their color (especially anodized ones) and resist corrosion.

These differences aren’t just cosmetic — they affect safety. A rusty or cracked bolt on your brakes or drivetrain is a risk you don’t want to take.

4. Price Considerations

Titanium is never “cheap.” Price can tell you a lot:

  • Fake bolts: Priced like stainless steel — avoid.
  • Low-grade titanium bolts: A bit more expensive, but sellers rarely specify grade.
  • High-grade Grade 5 titanium bolts: Several times the cost of steel, but worth it for performance, safety, and long-term durability.

👉 Always check for “Grade 5 / Ti-6Al-4V” in the description, and buy from trusted brands.

Final Thoughts

Spotting fake titanium bolts is straightforward: check the weight, color, magnetism, and hardness. But the real skill is distinguishing low-quality titanium from high-quality Grade 5 titanium. That difference determines whether your bolts are just “real titanium” or truly reliable for performance and safety.

A genuine high-quality titanium bolt is an investment — lighter than steel, longer lasting than aluminum, and resistant to rust. A fake or poorly made bolt, on the other hand, is a shortcut that can put your wallet and your ride at risk.

👉 Want titanium bolts you can trust? Discover certified Grade 5 titanium fasteners at SpartsBolts.com

 

Back to blog